London's Hottest Reservation, Martino's, Is a Masterclass in Old-School Glamour — These 3 Style Tricks From the Hit Eatery Make for Dining Rooms Beaming With Drama

Entering Martino's, the Sloane Square venture of former Soho House's COO Martin Kuczmarski, feels a bit like stepping into a very, very sexy time machine. Designed by David López Quincoces and Fanny Bauer Grung of Milan-based design house, Studio Dragò, the restaurant oozes old-school glamour, with velvet seats and burl-wood-clad walls that wrap you up and throw you into the golden age of dining, even if only for a few hours.

Like many people who grew up dreaming of working in media, I’ve long harbored a romantic fascination with the opulence of journalism in the ’90s. The endless, champagne-filled lunches and Carrie Bradshaw-style glamour. It's a world I've since accepted I could only access through the accounts of others, and I have, with ravenous appetite. Nowadays, though, the average journalist is more likely to take their lunch al-desko than they are to spend hours being wined and dined at London's best restaurants. Gone are the days of private jets and alcohol-fueled work days. But one Wednesday afternoon, as I sipped on a martini and munched on a zucchini fritti, surrounded by men in suits and ladies who lunch, it no longer felt quite so far away.

That's the whole magic of Martino's; it invites you into a secret, better world, all while making you feel like you completely belong. It's elegant and elevated, yet approachable, and comforting. And while, yes, this is at least in part thanks to the laid-back yet attentive hospitality and the extensive, unpretentious American-Italian menu, it is also, in large part, due to the design. Inspired by the visual culture of Milan and Art Deco glamour, there's a warmth to the opulence of Martino's.

Determined to emulate this elegance in my own home, I've broken down three of its core design features, so you, too, can have some of that old-school glitz from the comfort of your own home.

1. Set the Scene With 'A Moment of Grace'

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Upon entering Martino's, it's impossible not to take notice of the unique, almost otherworldly setting you're greeted by. Acting as a purgatory-esque space between the Ralph Lauren-clad rush of Sloane Square and the swish dining room beyond, this is far from your typical restaurant entrance. It's a signal — alerting you that you're about to enter somewhere special and inviting you to leave the outside world behind.

"We wanted to create a special moment that would separate the customers' noise from that of the outside world, from that of Martino's," explains Fanny Bauer Grung, co-founder of Studio Dragó, "Ruby Hammer, Martin's wife, coined the perfect expression 'to have a moment of grace.'"

Curved walls cloaked in a high-shine cream finish, with no visible entrance or exit, create a spaceship-like feel, as if you were about to embark on an intergalactic journey. This otherworldly aspect was no coincidence; it was the exact intention behind the design: "We wanted everyone to feel as if they had entered a different, special world," explains the designer.

Simultaneously, this room sets the scene for the timeless sophistication theme that runs throughout the restaurant. A single burl wood table stands in the center, a resting place for the large leather-bound book the host uses to check you in. No electronic booking system here, not a laptop or screen in sight. Before you can even take your seat, Martino's has already charmed you. And, considering the world's increasing obsession with analog living and our desperate search for ways to escape the culture of convenience we live in, this feels like a particularly timely design choice.

While the dining room feels like a true ode to Milanese art deco glamour, the entrance straddles two worlds. Setting the scene for what's to come, without fully immersing itself within it. As Fanny explains, this space was designed to act as a bridge between the world outside and the one within — "the whole restaurant somehow references art deco and 'old-school dining', yet the entrance is sort of still in time, to emphasize the separation from the outside world and that of Martino's." Then, with a push of a concealed door, the bridge is crossed, and you're cloaked in the swish glamour that is Martino's.

In your own interiors, creating this kind of transitory space between the outside world and the comfort of your home can help to build a separation between the two, making your home feel more relaxing, like a true escape from the frenetic energy of day-to-day life. Think of your entryway as a space to set the scene, introducing the atmosphere you want your home to carry throughout.

2. Unleash Nostalgic Glamour Through Materials

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Many establishments promise to offer up some interpretation of 'old school glamour', usually with twinkly chandeliers and framed images of Sophia Loren lining the walls. But while this approach can often feel like a cartoonish recreation, at Martino's, it feels unmistakably authentic, as if it had always been this way. In fact, it feels almost unbelievable that this establishment only emerged this year; it has the atmosphere of a time-honored classic.

Part of the magic of this restaurant comes from the balance between glamour and warmth, a testament to Fanny's goal of creating a space that felt "elegant but not intimidating." And so much of this comes down to the materials used throughout. "We believe that the mix of materials and old references helps to create a comforting atmosphere that connects to our collective memory of what dining used to be like in elegant places, whilst still making you feel at home," she explains.

It's this idea of 'what dining used to feel like' that feels particularly pertinent at Martino's. Even if you weren't privy to this age of restaurant culture, there is a collective understanding and memory stored in us all. Every material and design element speaks to this fantastical vision of a culinary golden age. From the red velvet that cloaks the padded booths to the Venetian terrazzo that lines the floors. But perhaps most notable of all is the use of burl wood.

Present in the striking central table in the entrance, and continuing through to the main dining room, where the material covers the walls and wraps around the booths, burl wood is the standout star in this design, and it immediately had me dreaming of all the ways I could bring it into my own home.

The inspiration behind this spoke to Fanny's origins, to the Italian trattorias in her home of Milan. "Traditional Italian trattorias with wooden wall paneling to a certain height were the initial starting point for the walls. We then shifted to burl wood to add a deco and retro feeling," she explains.

Wrapping across the walls, this burl wood cladding brings warmth, movement, and texture in a way that feels thoroughly unique to this material. And even if you can't commit to a full burl wood-drenched kitchen or living room in your own home, this material can be just as effective when used sparingly.

3. Leverage the Theatrical Power of Art Deco Lighting

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When it comes to building atmosphere, lighting is king. In particular, a soft, layered lighting scheme, where everything seems to be washed in a golden glow, bright enough for you not to need to whip out your phone flashlight to read a menu, but dim enough to make your dining partner appear that bit more beautiful than usual, and that's exactly what you'll find at Martino's.

When designing this restaurant, lighting was never an afterthought — it was key to the entire design, with Fanny describing it as "one of the most important aspects." And it wasn't just Fanny that felt this, as she explains, "we (us and Martin) feel the same way about lighting. It's key to making you feel good inside a space."

Knowing how lighting affects your mood and designing with this in mind is just as important when designing a restaurant as it is when designing your home. The intensity and temperature of the lighting, and the fittings themselves, play more than just an aesthetic role in your home; they are the ultimate scene-setters, dictating the entire feel of your surroundings. No matter how cozy your furniture or warm your color scheme, if your lighting is too cold or harsh, you'll struggle to ever make your room feel inviting.

"We work only with very warm light and use materials that will reflect light softly and subtly," explains Fanny. In Martino's, the lighting acts almost like the jewelry of the restaurant, a glamorous embellishment to an already elegant design. Sparkling Murano glass sconces line the walls, another reference to the restaurant's Italian inspiration, and sparkling pendant lights illuminate the enclaved booths.

Overhead lighting is kept to a minimum, instead relying on softer, eye-level features. Beyond the Murano sconces and twinkling chandeliers, the rest of the light comes from the candelit tables and the various wireless table lamps dotted around the dining room.

For the most part, the light fittings feel thoroughly Art Deco in style, with layered glimmers of sparkling glass. The central bar area, however, is adorned with slick, chrome decor lamps, providing a more modern touch to the space.

The Other Bites and Delights of Martino's

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Now, as special as the design is, we'd be remiss to talk about Martino's without diving into the menu. While the design leans into Milanese restaurant traditions, the menu itself takes a more expansive approach, drawing culinary inspiration from regions across Italy, with a sprinkle of Americanized approachability.

Despite the elegance of the setting, the food itself is unpretentious, unintimidating, and above all, delicious. Paper-thin zucchini fries act as the perfect start to the meal, or as an accompaniment to one of their many classic cocktail offerings.

From the starters, you'll find a mix of lighter bites, with delicately seasoned fish dishes, and the best beef carpaccio I've had the pleasure of eating, alongside some more traditional Italian classics, like the tortellini in brodo. The gnocco fritto e salumi was another standout, with fluffy, fried parcels of dough, fat-speckled cured meats, snappy, pickled vegetables, and huge hunks of salty parmesan — Martino's take on a ploughman's, if you will.

The mains are extensive and varied, with options for salads, pastas, pizzas, and larger main plates, too. My recommendation is to come with a crowd, so you can share something from each section. And come hungry, of course.

In the design and the food, Martino's carries a sense of true generosity; nothing is done by halves here. Take the meatballs zuppetta, for example, which, instead of being topped with a classic red sauce, come smothered in a decadent ragu, from a supremely rich, meaty bite. The menu caters as much for the sophisticated palette as it does for your fussiest friend, for a true 'everyone's invited' feel.

Not only am I already dreaming of my return to Martino's, but this restaurant has actually inspired me to take a trip to Milan, to soak up all that design inspiration straight from the source. And, luckily for me, Livingetc's very own Italian lifestyle guru has all the very best recommendations; from Milan's best hotels, to the city's best cafes, my itinerary is already sorted.

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