There is a convergence of worlds in the dishes on the menu of Scully St James's, the debut solo venture of Ramael Scully, who serves as the executive chef and co-founder of the acclaimed London restaurant. A mix-matching of flavors — from maize-based, southern America-inspired bites to gourmet takes on British BBQ meats and Asian-infused fish plates — that's nuanced enough to reflect the former NOPI head chef and long-time Ottolenghi collaborator's own multifaceted upbringing. Born to a mother of Chinese and Indian descent and an Irish-Balinese father, Scully was brought up in Sydney, Australia, where he took a liking to cooking and attended culinary school before moving his first steps within the field, working in the kitchens of fine dining eateries between Sydney itself, Moscow, and the UK from the early 2000s onwards.
The co-author of NOPI: The Cookbook, which came out in September 2015, Scully landed his first job with the Ottolenghi group in 2005, when he had just relocated to London, later moving to NOPI upon its launch in 2011. While his career took off from there, the positive influence of his partnership with Yotam Ottolenghi was mutual, with Scully's pan-Asian inspirations and worldwide, unexpected ingredient juxtapositions leaving a strong imprint on numerous of the acclaimed British-Israeli chef and restaurateur's dishes — think heartwarming mains like sea bass and turmeric potatoes in rasam broth, which draws from the tanginess of South Indian cuisine; fit-for-breakfast North African starters like celeriac purée with spiced cauliflower and quail's eggs; and fragrant corn cakes with beetroot and apple salad, a simple, playful lunch meal packed with herbs. As one of the British capital's most innovative gastronomic talents, we couldn't help but wonder what Scully's go-to chef's essentials were.
Read along to discover the one kitchen item he couldn't renounce in his practice and how it links back to his heritage, and take note of his most trusted cookware brands.
Keen to recreate the genius of Scully's cooking at home but don't quite know where to start? Flip through the volume he co-authored with Yotam Ottolenghi, NOPI: The Cookbook, to uncover all there is to know.
What Kitchen Essential Speaks Most to Your Craft?
A taste of what to expect at St James's Scully, where Asian, Middle Eastern, South American, and European influences collide.
"A key kitchen utensil for me is a cast-iron pan. They are often associated with being American, but really, it has been used in China and other Asian countries for centuries — it's a total staple for me. Cast-iron pans are an incredible utensil. One thing I really love about them is their longevity: if you know how to look after your pan, it can last you a lifetime. The key thing is to keep washing them to a minimum, giving them a quick wipe after use, and ensuring you never put them in the dishwasher, as that will lead to rust. If you feel like it needs a deep clean, there are also natural ways to do so, like baking soda and water.
"Cast-iron pans are great as they retain heat very well, which means consistent cooking temperatures. They also build natural non-stick surfaces over time through seasoning, for instance, through heating oil in the pan to create a natural non-stick coating through polymerisation, a chemical reaction where the oil bonds with the metal at high temperatures. So the more you use the pan, the better it gets. Plus, if anything goes wrong, it can even be 'reseasoned'. My favorite thing to make in my cast-iron pan is toasties — it gets them so crunchy and perfectly crispy on the outside. The skillets below all fall in my top five."
"This skillet by American brand Lodge is the one I have at home. It's reasonably priced and has lasted me so well. I've had it for 15 years already, and it's still going strong."
"This YETI™ cast-iron skillet is definitely pricier, but it's undoubtedly a beautiful, reliable pan that pairs function with standout textural design."
"The greatest thing about these Smithey skillets is that they come in lots of different sizes and formats, so they can be picked and used for different things."
"It won't take me saying it for you to know that Le Creuset is a reliable brand; they really do some great kitchenware, and this cast-iron pan is just an example of that."
"If you are looking for a cheaper yet trustworthy option, you can get this super affordable cast-iron skillet from Amazon, where it is currently discounted. Although knowing how long these pans can last, I would still consider investing in a more premium one."
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