Every image-maker will know there isn't a more exciting time of the year to travel to Arles than July, when Les Rencontres d'Arles, one of the foremost photography festivals in the world, gathers over 100,000 visitors from all corners of the globe over a three-month-long program of exhibitions, book launches, and portfolio reviews, panel discussions and awards.
The event, which returned to the city this Monday and continues through early October 5, is likely the main reason why this coastal commune in southern France, situated in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region and expanding across 759 square kilometers, is high on the travel bucket list of most visual storytellers, who look forward to it as one of the best things to do in Arles. Other people, though, including habitués of the best Paris hotels and die-hard lovers of French style decor, might not have heard much about it before.
Originally founded by the Greeks, Arles became a Roman settlement from as early as 46 BC, when Emperor Julius Caesar himself took over it, renaming it Arelate ("by the marsh") in a hint at the city's proximity to the breathtaking wetland of Camargue. Ancient Rome's influences over this stone-clad village can be felt at every turn, from its oldest churches and the storied thermal complex of the Baths of Constantine to the postcard-perfect Arènes d'Arles, the Provençal answer to the Eternal City's Colosseum.
Still, as is the case with every Livingetc travel spotlight, we are not here to simply brood over the past; we want to see where Arles is going. Curated into a 48-hour itinerary, the below local highlights are enough to paint this historical town as a design-worthy destination in its own right.
Artful Things to Do in Arles — A 48-Hour Guide
Day 1: Check Into
L'Arlatan
20 Rue du Sauvage, 13200 Arles, France
Conveniently located in Arles' city center near the Place du Forum, the painting-famous square that featured as the backdrop in Dutch artist Vincent Van Gogh's Café Terrace at Night (1888), L'Arlatan is a kaleidoscope of shapes, textures, and colors. Behind this 41-room-and-suite stay is world-acclaimed Cuban-American artist and sculptor Jorge Pardo, whose immersive, striking craft, straddling furniture, paintings, and mosaic tiles, has transformed this French retreat is a masterpiece in its own right. Dressed in mesmerizing terracotta murals and over 1,300 examples of handcrafted mid-century modern furniture, with creaturesque pendant lamps bringing the hotel to life at night, L'Arlatan is where Provence and South America meet through design.
Sip Coffee at
VAGUE CAFÉ
14 Rue de Grille, 13200 Arles, France
VAGUE, Japanese interdisciplinary collective Teruhiro Yanagihara Studio's base in the Little Rome of Provence, reunites some of the most unexpected, inspiring things to do in Arles — from innovative group and solo presentations to crafts and culinary workshops, talks, and more — under one roof. Also based in the rising cultural capital of Kobe, situated on the southern side of Honshu island, some 30 km west of Osaka, for its Provencal outpost, the group has set up shop inside a former chapel, filled with warming rays of sunshine and lived, porous surfaces.
In time for both Les Rencontres d'Arles and summer 2025, Teruhiro Yanagihara Studio's coffee shop, VAGUE Café, has just reopened its doors for the season within the premises of this multifunctional gallery space. The home to a number of artisanal pieces by friends of the Japanese collective, it has a quirky-cool, vintage edge to it, with Marcel Breuer chairs, rounded bistro-style tables, and tiled checkered floors. Pick from a boundary-pushing menu of hot and cold drinks, or stick to culinary researcher Sayuri Sakairi's homemade gelatos for a revitalizing treat.
Fill Up on Inspiration at
LUMA Arles
35 Av. Victor Hugo, 13200 Arles, France
Since works began in 2014, the construction of the LUMA Tower, the most prominent landmark in Arles' otherwise low-rise skyline, now serving as the symbol of Swiss arts patron Maja Hoffmann's eponymous arts center, immediately sparked criticism for the way it disrupted the city's ancient architectural fabric. The brainchild of Canadian-American architect and designer Frank Gehry, I personally find it rather magical, its intricately tessellated, mirrored surface morphing as the Provencal village goes from dawn to day, from day to golden hour before eventually turning dark with the night.
For art and design-addicted travelers, LUMA Arles' interior is just as much of a treasure trove. Spanning a total of nearly 11 hectares, this forward-thinking campus is home to a thought-provoking calendar of exhibitions by leading contemporary talents (don't miss Egyptian artist Wael Shawky's I Am Hymns of the New Temples, which continues until November 2). It also hosts permanent installations, including Philippe Parreno's mind-bending Danny / No More Reality, and a series of meticulously designed food and drink destinations. Among the latter, the Martino Gamper-designed Le Réfectoire, a patchworky, retro-fueled all-day canteen, is my absolute favorite.
Plan your visit to LUMA Arles.
Lunch at
L'Épicerie du Cloître
Another Arles must-visit signed by India Mahdavi, Le Cloître hotel also hosts L'Épicerie du Cloître, an intimate restaurant and deli serving French food and drinks from morning till late at night.
22 Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles, France
When in Arles, self-professed interior obsessives shouldn't miss their chance to check out (or stay at) Le Cloître, a whimsical boutique hotel dreamed up by Iranian-French architect and designer India Mahdavi. Well placed in the city center, within close proximity to most of its ancient sites, the stay is also worth stopping by for lunch, where L'Épicerie du Cloître, a relaxed eatery-cum-deli, serves local delicacies within a colorful, welcoming setting, while also granting visitors the opportunity to dine immersed in Arles' winding alleys thanks to the fairylights-lit terrace placed outside.
Learn more about L'Épicerie du Cloître.
Escape the City at
Camargue Regional Nature Park
Mas du pont de Rousty, RD 570, 13200 Arles, France
Within a 30-minute drive from the heart of Arles lies one of Europe's most spectacular wonders, the Camargue Regional Nature Park — one of the things everyone should take the time to see when in the Provençal town. Expanding across 85,000 hectares, this outstanding reserve finds its home around the Rhône River delta, and is famous for its immersive landscapes and diverse wildlife. The pools of water that inhabit its salt marshes, filled with Dunaliella salina algae, are painted in surreal hues of pink, purple, and blue in an unmissable spectacle, while wild horses, bulls, and pink flamingos populate the site.
Learn more about Camargue Regional Nature Park.
Dine at
Inari
A former chapel has found new life in itinerant chef Céline Pham's first-ever restaurant, Inari.
16 Pl. Voltaire, 13200 Arles, France
For the past few years, chef Céline Pham has been taking her nostalgic culinary explorations to the world's most sumptuous palaces, sought-after retreats, and opera houses, continuously honing her craft through anticipated pop-ups cherished by the foodies and the style set alike. At Inari, her first-ever permanent restaurant, her creative experimentation lends itself to a heartwarming, intimate dining experience that bridges the gap between Provence and Vietnam. Set, like many of the coolest things to see in Arles, within a storied chapel beautifully bearing the signs of time, this neo-bistro eatery seamlessly blends the packed-with-spice, luscious silkiness of Vietnamese food with the refinedness and precision of France's cuisine. It is a fusion that's reflected in its atmosphere, too, where old and new blend effortlessly, creating another world as textured wood and stone meet the orange flooring, mid-century furnishings, metallic accents, and colorful bottle collection that, along with the chef's skilled reinterpretation of the French gastronomic tradition and an ample wine selection, make Inari a must-try.
Day 2: Sip Coffee at
Mazette !
At Mazette !, heartwarming drinks and food and Boho-chic interiors collide to a stunning effect.
8 Pl. Antonelle, 13200 Arles, France
I don't know about you, but whenever I am traveling, few things are as appreciated as an independent and creatively designed coffee shop. That's why I have put Mazette ! on my radar — so that next time I am in town, I know where to head to for an uplifting morning start. Characterized by a boho-meets-modern rustic decor, the space's naturally lit rooms are ideal for either a long brunch with friends or an alternative, more inspiring work-from-home setup. Committed to championing organic, local products across its food and beverage offering, Mazette ! fixes you up for the day, whether you are stepping in for breakfast or a quick bite before heading out to explore Arles.
Fill Up on Inspiration at
Lee Ufan Arles
5 Rue de Vernon, 13200 Arles, France
Inaugurated in 2022, Lee Ufan Arles, the pioneering arts center dreamed up by the Korean-born painter, sculptor, and academic namesake, is one of the most design-forward things to see in Arles. The foundation, housed inside the private mansion that is Hôtel Vernon, not far from the city's amphitheater, is the fruit of a collaboration between Lee Ufan himself and leading Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Known for creating environments that inventively couple the essentialness of brutalism with the organic, light-filled essence of Nipponic interiors, Ando has transformed this historical three-story building into a sleekly sophisticated platform for the artist's work. Today, Lee Ufan Arles comprises multiple exhibition galleries, alongside a bookshop, a store, and mediation and reception areas.
Through October 5, the institution showcases A Conversation Piece, a poetic dialogue between the production of Michelangelo Pistoletto — the main representative of Arte Povera, which seeks to shift the attention from the financial value of art to the creative process that led to it and the influence it has on people viewing the work — and Lee Ufan, the theoretician of Mono-ha ("the school of things"), an avant-garde movement promoting similar values and principles in Japan.
Plan your visit to Lee Ufan Arles.
Lunch at
Chardon
At Chardon, "all menus are created carte blanche by our resident chefs with the best of what the land and sea have to offer at the moment".
37 Rue des Arènes, 13200 Arles, France
In Arles, gastronoming pop-ups are ... popping, and Arles' bistro and wine bar, Chardon, is where some of the world's best-in-class talents are at. Nestled in a picturesque alley in the center of town, this bucolic dining spot offers three-course set lunch and dinner menus crafted with love by its ever-rotating cohort of chefs in residence. For July and August 2025, Chardon has got Provence-born-and-bred Alexandre Gilles behind the stove. The chef's gastronomic experimentation revives the cooking of his Provençal and Algerian grandmothers, fusing them with the inspirations he picked up while working at Ebo, the BBQ-led eatery he set up with a friend in Annecy, southeastern France, and the freshness of Mediterranean culinary culture more widely.
Get Lost Into
Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles
35 Rue du Dr Fanton, 13200 Arles, France
Established in the spring of 2014, Arles' Fondation Van Gogh keeps the legacy of the Dutch Post-Impressionism pioneer alive through a rotating program of solo and collective shows juxtaposing his production with works from modern and contemporary artists. Located near the southern bank of the Rhône River, the institution looks to his residence in Arles, where Van Gogh lived between 1888 and 1889, as instrumental to his genius (over that time, he produced some 300 paintings, along with 100 drawings and watercolors, including some of his most spectacular masterpieces).
Designed by Fluor Architecture, it is housed within the Hôtel Léautaud de Donines, where, past a glassy façade, visitors get to discover some of the greatest artists of our time. Should you be looking for more things to see in Arles, Beneath the Cobblestones, The Earth, a survey exhibition dedicated to the esteemed German painter and photographer, is open at the museum through October 26.
Plan your visit to Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles.
Dine at
La Chassagnette
Garden-to-table restaurant La Chassagnette might not be the most traditional of French eateries, but Chef Armand Arnal's approach to fine dining brings the beauty and flavor of its surroundings onto the plate.
Mas de la Chassagnette, D36 Route Sambuc, 13200 Arles, France
Immersed in the greenery of the Camargue Regional Nature Park, a 12-minute journey from the center of Arles, Michelin-starred restaurant La Chassagnette is both a break from the city and traditional French cuisine. How counterintuitive as this might sound, this is, at least for any fellow gluten-intolerant readers, a good thing. All of Chef Armand Arnal's recipes, which focus on packing the flavorsomeness of the eatery's surrounding nature into worldly inspired, nourishing bites, plates, and desserts, skew heavily to the vegetarian side of things, though fish and meat lovers will be pampered by his 6-course Fauna & Flora menu. The food presentation is inventive and colorful, the views lush, and the atmosphere simply idyllic.
Book your table at La Chassagnette.
Before You Go
WE ARE ONA at La Villa Bank
Luca Pronzato's nomadic culinary platform WE ARE ONA landed in Arles this week for a one-table-only gastronomic experience powered by Thai-American chef Dalad Kambhu, with original table and stool designs by India Mahdavi.
To mark the return of Les Rencontres d'Arles, WE ARE ONA, the culinary platform launched by NOMA alumnus Luca Pronzato in 2019 as the driving force behind some of the most talked-about gastronomic pop-ups worldwide, has taken over the modernist gem that is the Émile Sala-designed La Villa Bank. Over a six-day period ending tonight, the platform has been bringing an exclusive food experience to the landmark's lush outside. With a menu authored by American-Thai chef Dalad Kambhu and legendary Iranian-French architect India Mahdavi on the table and stool design (plus, glassware by Sophie Lou Jacobsen), it could only be a feast for the taste buds and the eye.
Learn more about La Villa Bank.
A list of things to do in Arles can only truly be useful to you if you are headed to the French photography capital on the occasion of Les Rencontres d'Arles or planning to visit the city in the future — though, if you are like me, travel inspiration is always welcome.
Should you be stuck in the UK for the rest of the summer, you might find what you are after in my recent curation of the best day trips from London, art and design-led itineraries that will have you discover some of the most scenic villages and creative institutions Britain has got to offer.
