On a balmy evening of honking traffic and fumes in central London, I escaped into what felt like an open-air bar in an Italian piazza, or one of the most magical of Venetian eateries. The walls seemed to glow in the light of a dusky sunset, and dinky table lamps glowed warm like candlelight. Walking through the doors felt like entering a new country — somewhere cleaner, softer, and with much snazzier tiling.
Cicchetti Piccadilly, one of the best restaurants in London for lovers of Italian cuisine, first opened in 2012 by the San Carlo group, has now moved to 172-173 Piccadilly, a stone's throw from The Ritz, and sports an entirely new interior by award-winning design studio Fettle, the mastermind behind Cicchetti Knightsbridge and Isola in Marylebone.
Arches lined with mirrors refract light over this glitzy bar with cheeky pink tiling details and a fabulous scallop-patterned floor.
The exterior is styled like a shop front: rustic tomato red frames a deli-style window offering fruit, fish, and a tantalizing glimpse of the beautiful interiors within. It's purposefully contrived, and it works, setting Cicchetti Piccadilly apart from the otherwise pale-colored, distinctly British architecture surrounding the establishment.
The mini cloakroom and reception desk feel something out of a Wes Anderson movie, and the entrance bar cements the film set feel, in the best way possible. Surfaces are red marble, drinks sparkle in the mirrors above, and the stools are upholstered in glorious lobster, dusty rose, and crab pink tones, with shining gold details. It's a glittering, winking-with-light spectacle just waiting for a slinky-dress-wearing filmstar to slip in and have a drink.
Straight out of a Wes Anderson movie, this old-school reception desk with mustard '70s style stripes, flanked by two squat lamps, sets the tone for an interior of stylish fun at San Carlo's Cicchetti Piccadilly.
We were here for dinner, however, and so were seated at one of the deep green banquettes curving around a circular wood and marble table, overlooked by leafy green plants and a rather fantastic ceramic of a leaping fish.
Beyond our table, two twisted tree trunks splay their branches across the restaurant ceiling and, though fake, the vegetation creates a remarkably al fresco-feeling dining experience. Even in the recesses of the restaurant, the atmosphere is one of a sunlit terrace in the Mediterranean. The whole eatery has an old-Hollywood fuzz; everyone sits bathed in the flattering softness of old movies. The effect is heightened by the elegant Murano glass chandeliers of feathered palms.
Our waiter — unfailingly friendly and sporting a pink bow tie — is Maria, and she talks us through the cicchetti concept: essentially, the Venetian version of tapas. We each order three dishes and split them between us, selecting from a menu of salads, street food bites, pasta, pizza, meat, and fish. There are several vegetarian options and some vegan ones, too.
Andy Goodwin, Creative Director of Fettle, hoped to recreate "the welcoming and playful nature of a neighborhood Italian restaurant".
First to arrive are the Gamberoni Fritti, deep fried tempura prawns with chili mayo, presented in a rose gold XL martini glass; then the burrata salad and one thick, cheese and potato dream of a Neapolitan croquette swaddled in parma ham. We dive into the prawns, crunching through the crispy batter, and pairing it with the rocket, avocado, and the — frankly heavenly — mozzarella, very fresh and authentically creamy. The Crocchè Napoletano, consisting as it did of potato and cheese, was entirely up my alley, though not a good choice for anyone looking for a healthy option.
The pasta dishes held further delight. I opted for another cheesy number: homemade ravioli swimming in pecorino cheese and topped with generous shavings of truffle. In a word: delectable. My partner selected the Pappardelle all'Anatra, a duck ragù dish whose sweet onion base is reminiscent of a pasta alla Genovese.
With the surroundings making us feel as if we were on holiday, it seemed only right to sample a selection of Cicchetti Piccadilly's summer cocktails. My first choice was a frothy coconut number, decorated with a painted streak of strawberry red — one for those who prefer their poison of choice sweet and creamy. A fresher alternative is Alto's Fizz with Bombay Sapphire gin and elderflower cordial, or for those seeking a classic, the espresso martini on the dessert menu is delicious.
A fusion of old and new as contemporary abstract art sits alongside the mini table lamps of a cosy Italian eatery.
A tip from me: do not leave Cicchetti without exploring the bathrooms. The subtle sea-faring motifs found upstairs (scalloped-edged mirrors, fish ceramics) find their true expression below deck. Doors are punctuated with brass-ringed portholes and taps are miniature helms. Somehow the whole thing manages to be extremely cool and classy, wrapped as it is almost entirely in a dusky red and pink marble.
Tasty food, frothy cocktails, and a glowing pastel interior that transports you to the Med. A girl can't ask for anything more.
Book your table at Cicchetti Piccadilly.
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