At This Art-Led Hotel Just Outside Nice, Mediterranean Warmth Balances Modern Minimalism for a Stay That Feels Like a Retreat From the World
Unique art, exquisite design, beautiful food, and stunning landscapes all come together to create an inspiring stay at Toile Blanche
Saint Paul de Vence is a place steeped in art history. Set up on an idyllic hillside just a 30-minute journey winding up out of Nice, the town holds many stories of now-legendary artists – the likes of Picasso, Chagall, and Matisse – who exchanged paintings for rooms at the now iconic hotel, La Colombe d’Or. The phrase 'if the walls could talk' comes to mind when you walk into this place, which is now an incredible chic spot open for drinks and dinner, so you can stand awestruck with a rosé in hand as you admire the original works.
The town is also home to the modern art collection at Fondation Maeght – and it still draws new artists and gallerists from across the world. It is the perfect home for Toile Blanche, a boutique art-led design hotel that, just like the town, has artwork at its core.
The Leroy Brothers, Gilles, Gregory, and Nicolas, began the hotel in 2004 as a small bed and breakfast, and transformed a 1890s farmhouse into a family-run business. But before becoming hoteliers, they were (and still very much are) artists, working together on contemporary pieces that can be found throughout the hotel.
Since its humble beginnings, Toile Blanche has grown to 22 suites, dotted around the beautiful and sprawling grounds, in a mix of both new buildings and older properties that the brothers have acquired over the years.
Each suite has a unique feel and personal touch, everyone has its own entrance and outside space, and some come with private pools. No two rooms are the same, but all the interiors have the same thread of warmth, the perfect balance of minimalism, while still being inviting.
Pinkish clay tones and terracottas mix with linen, wood, and rattan to create beautiful layers, reflective of the Mediterranean location. There are plenty of artworks in the rooms too — work by the brothers themselves, and pieces carefully selected for the style of the suits.
And the artwork goes beyond just being hung in the rooms. There is also an on-site gallery: Toile Blanche Contemporary. The collection is a mix of artists, and changes regularly. This summer, the hotel has a busy art programme made up of four exhibitions from artists from all over the world — Holly Hendry, Kris, Dewitte, Tom Barman, and John Franzen.
The grounds of the hotel itself are also like an open gallery, a sculpture park for modern art from both local and global artists. But blink, and you might miss them, as the pieces are nestled among the lavender or disguised in the olive trees. This is a place that effortlessly blends modern art and luxury design.
If you are spending the day lounging around the many pools, stop to have a memorable lunch at La Guinguette, which has a beautiful seasonal menu of small plates to be enjoyed under the shade of the burnt orange sun umbrellas. Dinner is a slightly more formal affair at Le Restaurant, where the decor is moodier and more intimate, with the owners’ artwork lining the walls. For breakfast, which is included in the room's price, you pick the spot — on the terrace, by the pool, or in your bed. The menu is fresh, and the options are plentiful.
Toile Blanche may now be a luxury spot, but it hasn't lost its original roots. Artwork is still celebrated, and there's still an intimate family feel to the hotel. You'll likely spot one of the brothers on site, ready to talk art, food, family, and design.
