The Design Story Behind PINCH's Soft, Sculptural Anders Pendant Light That Took 5 Years to Perfect

The Anders light has become one of the most recognizable pieces of modern design, yet it was almost dropped, as its designer, Russell Pinch, explains

PINCH London Anders Pendant Lamp over dining table
(Image credit: PINCH London)

There are a few pieces that crop up so often in Livingetc-style homes that they signal a shared design sensibility. B&B Italia's Camaleonda sofa is one, and for a time, it was Faye Toogood's Roly Poly chair for Driade. Perennially, though, it is the Anders Light by Pinch. Soft, pretty, made from folds of banana leaf, we see it above dining tables, in bedrooms, casting a diffused glow over living rooms. It's a surprising turn of events for a piece that, when Russell Pinch first designed it back in 2009, was never intended to be sold at all.

"It was for a photo shoot," Russell recalls of the now iconic lamp. Founded in 2004, the fledgling studio had only a handful of designs at the time. "We had the Avery chair, the Harper table, and the Moreau sofa," he says. "We were shooting them together and needed a light to hang above the table."

Flicking through fashion magazines, Russell had seen a Lanvin dress caught in motion, its outer skirt lifting to reveal the flowing layers of the petticoat beneath. "I remember thinking there was something in that," he says. "I made a rough model from wobbly bits of fabric. It was pathetic, really, but it captured the idea."

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round dining table with a woven lamp hanging above with two dining chairs, and a cutting board hanging on the wall

The Anders Light was originally designed for a photoshoot.

Image credit: PINCH London

sketch of Pinch's Anders light

The original design was inspired by the motion of a swirling dress.

Image credit: PINCH London

Turning that sketch into reality proved a challenge. At the time, Russell was freelancing for Jasper Conran and took the model to the company's creative director, hoping someone in fashion might know how to construct it.

"She looked at it and said, 'That's millinery — you need a milliner, not a tailor.' It was a lightbulb moment," he explains. Lighting manufacturers had offered to make the shade in plastic, but that missed the point entirely. "I wanted it to have the drape of a dress. Anything less would have looked a bit soulless. It needed that soul."

The breakthrough came with the use of banana fiber, the delicate translucency of which transformed the design. "It did far more than we'd anticipated because of the way the fibers diffuse the light," Russell says.

black-and-white photo of hands pleating a Anders light from Pinch

Each light is painstakingly handmade.

(Image credit: PINCH London)

Even so, perfecting the Anders took five years — each light is still painstakingly handmade. Individual layers are cut, stiffened, sewn, and pinned before being sculpted into their final form.

"The simplicity belies the complexity of the making," Russell says. "People look at it and think, 'That seems straightforward,' but it's anything but. We quality-control the angle of every drape. They look random, but they're actually incredibly specific."

Surprisingly, the Anders spent almost a decade quietly sitting in the collection without becoming a commercial success. "We sold enough to justify keeping it, but only just," Russell admits. "If we hadn't loved using it in our own photography, we might have discontinued it."

Instead, something slowly shifted. The design gradually found its audience, becoming one of Pinch's most requested pieces. Today it appears everywhere from private homes to ambitious commercial commissions, including a Texas yoga studio where Anders pendants snake dramatically across the ceiling, and one of designer Lonika Chande's projects that appeared in our pages earlier this year. "I am drawn to the Anders light for the simplicity of its form," she says. "When lit, the plant fiber fabric brings a unique soft warm glow that creates the most wonderful atmosphere in a room."

fabric woven wall-light with a side table with vase on it

The Anders light now comes in a wall sconce.

Image credit: PINCH London

close up of fabric of a light

"The simplicity belies the complexity of the making," Russell says.

Image credit: PINCH London

Russell agrees its enduring appeal lies in the atmosphere it creates. "It's the softness," he says. "The layering creates incredible luminosity, where some parts glow more brightly than others. With our sculptural pieces, we're always trying to bring warmth and soul into a space."

More than 20 years after Pinch Design began, the Anders — still evolving, with a new wall-light version — stands as proof of the studio's philosophy. "Our work is designed to be undateable," Russell says. "The Anders is unusual because it's so sculptural. Often those pieces become fashionable and then disappear. Somehow, this one has endured."

If you're someone who enjoys discovering the story behind a design, you might like to read about the history of IKEA's POÄNG Armchair, which was created as an 'anti-stress' chair 50 years ago.

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Pip Rich
Executive Editor

The editor of Livingetc, Pip Rich (formerly Pip McCormac) is a lifestyle journalist of almost 20 years experience working for some of the UK's biggest titles. As well as holding staff positions at Sunday Times Style, Red and Grazia he has written for the Guardian, The Telegraph, The Times and ES Magazine. The host of Livingetc's podcast Home Truths, Pip has also published three books - his most recent, A New Leaf, was released in December 2021 and is about the homes of architects who have filled their spaces with houseplants. He has recently moved out of London - and a home that ELLE Decoration called one of the ten best small spaces in the world - to start a new renovation project in Somerset.