Are You a Wine Glass 'Stem Snob'? We Asked 3 Top Restaurateurs Whether Thinner Is Better, and What They Look for in a Glass
The verdict is in, and these wine experts say that setting dictates everything
Wine 'snobbery' seems to be a recurring theme across my Instagram feed at the moment, and while I do enjoy a crisp white in a thin-stemmed glass, contemporary forms with chunkier silhouettes (gasp, I know) have swayed my stance of late.
But before you tut-tut-tut, I slid into the inboxes of some top restaurateurs with wine backgrounds to ask them what actually matters when choosing the perfect glass. And it turns out that while most ritzy venues demand a slim-stemmed style, the best wine glasses for your table should actually depend on the setting.
If there's something to pay astute attention to, it's shape and its immediate correlation to the type of wine you're drinking. (Did you know it can actually impact its taste?) So, here's what you should know to impress your self-professed sommelier friends.
How to Choose a Wine Glass
At this London restaurant, mid-size stems fit in with the hearty meals and bustling energy.
Michael Mackenzie, lead on wine at Poon’s at Somerset House, tells me, contrary to table-setting trends, wine glasses with thin stems are not necessarily always the best. "What is key is the overall feel and balance of the wine glass, including the stem length and the tactile impression of the stem on your fingers," he explains.
"There are beautiful antique wine glasses (like this Patrician Hand-Blown Crystal White Wine Glass Lobmeyr), which have thicker stems than we find today, often ornate, and which enhance a special occasion," he explains. "A well-designed glass is to be admired in its entirety."
So, what makes the perfect wine glass? "Balance in the design and proportions, not only for the visual pleasure but also for tasting," says Michael. "To concentrate on a wine, you want a glass that does not distract you and is a pleasure to hold. It is the vehicle to convey to your eyes, nose, and palate the intrinsic qualities of a wine. Here, of course, the size and curvature of the bowl are key. Overblown, in every sense, wine glasses are a total distraction."
At Poon’s, after testing a wide range of wine glasses, Michael says that the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass [available at Amazon] meets every criterion.
Michael Mackenzie leads on the wine at Poon’s at Somerset House. He deals with a wine list that is thoughtfully curated, focusing on cool-climate wines and championing family-owned producers, biodynamic practices, and female winemakers.
This Hackney restaurant choreographs thin-stemmed wine glasses into the meal.
Anna Patrowicz, sommelier at Akub, tells me that she personally adores thin-stemmed glassware. "It feels more sophisticated, elegant, and modern, but I think the choice should always correspond to the overall setting and style of dining," she adds.
"The decor, atmosphere, and even the furniture should influence the choice of stemware," Anna continues. "At Akub, for example, we chose slightly less delicate glasses that sit safely on the organic surfaces of our tables and feel much more integral to the overall character of the restaurant."
When Anna decided on a glass to set the table with, her main focus was the rim. "I like the rim to be as thin as possible, creating as little of a barrier as possible between the wine and the person drinking it. Ideally, you should almost forget that the glass is there," she says.
"The size and shape of the bowl are equally important," she adds. "It should comfortably accommodate a 125ml pour while leaving plenty of space for the wine to open up, allowing you to swirl it properly and experience its aromas."
Although Anna doesn't have a single favorite, she tells me that the Zalto Universal Wine Glass [available at Selfridges] has been a reliable go-to for a long time.
Anna Patrowicz is the head of drinks at Akub, a popular Palestinian restaurant in London. She is also an accomplished beverage consultant and wine buyer.
Richard Brendon Wine Glasses [available at Selfridges] are a beautifully versatile choice of stemware.
Abe Drewery, co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, is of a similar opinion that thinner wine stems are better. "The perfect wine glass allows the aromas to express themselves, looks great, and allows you to enjoy the wine to the max," he says.
"And the best wine glass, hands down, is the Richard Brendon x Janis Robinson Universal Glass [available at Harrods]," Abe shares. "It's absolutely perfect for white, red, and fizz."
However, if there's one thing I've come to learn, it's that the thickness of your wine stem is really a matter of personal taste, while the bowl and its rim should be chosen more carefully depending on your vino of choice. So really, the question of whether you're styling skinny stems or chunky glassware should be up to the vibe of your table.
Abe Drewery is the co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, a British bistro in Hackney. He is responsible for curating the thoughtful wine list at Teal and often lends his expertise on the subject.
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For the Non-Particular, Contemporary Eye
Another style of drinkware that requires careful consideration and might be a more regular part of your routine is coffee mugs. So you're not caught lacking at your next dinner party, sign up for the Livingetc newsletter.
